Showing posts with label Art. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Art. Show all posts
Thursday, 5 January 2017
Focus on Bev Malik
I have known Bev Malik almost as long as I have have shot streetstyle. Photographing her outside both the men's and women's shows. Always stylish, always friendly. When asked recently what she did I had to confess I didn't exactly know. But that I did know it was a mix of Art and Fashion. So as you will see this was the perfect opportunity to learn more. One more thing I also learnt, Bevs' instagram feed is called Bev and Saturday and didn't know why. When I met her at her home the answer became clear very quickly. Saturday is her wonderful cockerpoo.
D: Tell me a bit about yourself and the journey that brought you to the world of fashion and the arts.
B: I was born in Nairobi but have lived in England since I was 8. I was a tomboy in some sense, and have been deeply bookish throughout my life. I adored art and dressing up, it's all I can remember in my childhood. That and climbing trees, or, reading books rather quickly. I would spend my lunchtimes in the art school but had little confidence in my abilities to follow arts as a career path. I stumbled into fashion when I spoke about Jean Paul Gaultier, Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld for my French A Level exam. It unlocked a whole rich vibrant world for me. As a Francophile, fashion seemed integral to me and to culture as a whole. I didn't consider it superficial.
I worked as a Saturday girl in Harvey Nichols to put myself through university which developed my relationship with clothes, with dressing women and with how they feel, how they connect to their social circles or even express the signs of their times. This became my central thought process.
It was here that it became obvious to me that I wanted to become a fashion buyer. It was the best career choice for me as I loved connecting art and commerce and fashion creativity with real women, who could then take that world with them in their own unique way. I know fashion is not necessarily art. But I do believe that art imitates life and that life is reflected consistently and powerfully through fashion. Art and it's relationship with fashion has increasingly become of interest to me. I think it's a powerful time of change in fashion and we have a lot to learn about how things are developing in the art world.
D: You have a multi faceted approach to work. Tell us what you do.
B: My background and my core has always been retail. I also get involved in design brand consulting and other areas of the business but my strengths are fundamentally in retail. However even in this sphere I have never sought to become a specialist in any single fashion category.
Starting in menswear, I then embraced lingerie, denim, resort wear and swimwear as well as designer fashion. I never allowed it to become about just my personal tastes either, though good taste helps a great deal.
I also know that for instance women or consumers do not follow trends, or what our industry tells them to. They follow different rhythms and ideas, so success to me in this industry can never come from a singular approach.
We need to listen to numbers and data but not be ruled by them, we need to offer points of view as retailers, stylists and editors, even bloggers - but we should be humble enough to know not dictate to a consumer. I think we all need a balanced approach to life, work, and disciplines. Retail can be disruptive at its best, but never without loosing sight of what people want. This is what makes for good retail. It's what brought about brilliant pop up stores and concept stores around the world. I hope it will bring about more eco-conscious ways of shopping and designing in the future.
D: What is your favourite part of your job?
B: I adore styling real women or men, and creating a store, an environment or visual language that relates to their lives. I enjoy also delving deeply into the worlds of the designers whose creative approaches never fail to inspire and delight me. If it's their story telling or if it's their attention to detail. I am constantly inspired by them.
D: Who or what inspires you?
B: Genuine creativity inspires me. Whether it's from a stylist or editor such as Franca Sozanni whose untimely death leaves us all awed and inspired by her guts and creativity, or perhaps it's a young or forgotten artist or designer who just thinks out of the box.
My deepest inspiration has always been my mother who was able to exceptionally mix and match from different cultures and eras of fashion so effortlessly. I think ultimately she left me with a deep sense that nothing was off bounds for me, that I could wear anything, be anyone I wanted, and freedom from not being in a clique or a fashion set was more interesting than being bound by their codes. She also gave me a sense there was and is more in common with our ideas than differences, so she would encourage me to connect the recycling of car tires in Nairobi with the sculptures displayed in the louvre. The idea that one culture is alien from another simply didn't influence me.
D: Describe your own personal style.
B: I have colours (such as navy and white) and ideas or categories (like shirts or baggy jeans) that I have always always loved but I am now 38 and I've grown in and out of so many things. The freedom to change is more important than fixing an identity in fashion. However, my main influence is nineties style. I love menswear and androgyny, I think the most interesting and tricky style trick is being sexy in an intelligent way. I love avant garde fashion but it ceases to be interesting to me when it denies the person within. My style is me wearing the clothes in that moment, I hope not the other way around.
D: Tell me something surprising about yourself.
B: Two things: I collect playing cards (and have 38 packs now). Also, I learnt how to speed read when I was 17 so I can devour novels and books.
Credits:
Bev is wearing
Image 1 - Dodo Bar Or dress. Book Patti Smith M Train, Candles Cire Trudon (Sacre Santi and Ottoman)
Image 2 & 5 - Saint Laurent suit with Gianvito Rossi shoes. On the table sit books, Sketchbooks by Derek Jarman, Linder by Linder Sterling, Gucci floral notebook and the Guide to Spiritual Management by Guram Gavsalia (founder of Vetements).
Image 3 - Joseph dress with Gucci shoes
Image 4 - Levi's shirt with Frame jeans
Image 6 - The Row dress with Celine shoes
Labels:
Art,
Bev Malik,
Buyer,
Cockerpoo,
Dvora,
eCommerce,
Fashion,
Fashionistable,
Retail,
Saturday,
Spotlight On,
stylist
Thursday, 8 December 2016
Focus On....Juliette Mahieux Bartoli
I first met Juliette at an afternoon tea party earlier this year. During our conversation the subject turned to what we we did. I convinced her to show me her work and she spoke about her up coming exhibition which would launch in November. The few pieces she was able to show me totally whet my appetite for more and have had me waiting with bated breath for the rest until now. When Juliette showed me around her beautiful show I knew there and then I had to photograph her with her work. Her solo exhibition runs at the Kristin Hjellegjerde gallery 533 Old York Road, London, SW18 1TG until the 23rd of December, so you still have time to go see it. You will be glad you did.
Here is her story
D: Tell me a bit about yourself and your journey in art so far.
J: I live and practice in London; I moved to the city for an MA at art school. I was drawn to London because it is so international I don't feel like an oddity here. I grew up moving around; my parents are French and Italian, so the closest thing I have to roots is Europe. London makes sense as home with its vibrant creative community, which is so invigorating. I was really lucky to meet my gallerist Kristin Hjellegjerde right after the MA. The people she draws around the gallery form a wonderfully warm and nurturing ecosystem of artists and artworld people.
Creativity has always been part of my life. I’ve always loved drawing, and discovered oil painting as a teenager. When I was at university I kept painting alongside my Art History degree. When I was a child I had a plan set out that I would become a writer and I would illustrate my books, so I didn't need to compromise on either my love of making up stories or image-making. I don’t actually think my prediction was that far off in substance, it just happened to manifest in the visual arts instead.
D: Tell me about your current exhibition Pax Romana. For me there is a beautiful fusion of playfulness and drapery in the movement, juxtaposed with the sculptural, marmoreal coolness of the figures themselves all backed by the weight and stories of the classics. Tell me how you came to blend this all together and the importance of the background colour to each piece.
J: I'm so glad you can feel that coming through! The series is about hybrid cultural identity, so the paintings are built around a sense of hybrid aesthetic. I want to create paintings that will be a voice for the 21st century's cross-cultural communities, that will embrace and acknowledge the strength and beauty that comes out of being a hybrid of cultures.
Pax Romana comes from a personal place but I want it to speak broadly and that is why I use classical archetypes. Greek and Roman myths are both serious and playful, as that is how people are. I try to convey some of the complexity of human beings and their interactions by throwing my painted characters together in a dance. They look like marble quite purposefully - I like the ambiguity, and the reference to the classical that comes with it. And also how fabric has the ability of being incredibly sensual and tactile as well as completely abstract when cut up out of context. These fragments interfere with sharp abstraction, and I can use the flat background colour to accentuate the characters’ personalities.
D: What is your favourite part of your job?
J: The feeling I get when I find a really good composition. It is the hardest part and can take me months at times to find it. I will go through tens of compositions to get to the right one, but I know it when I see it. So when I finally get there, it is a hugely satisfying moment. Honestly there are many different aspects to my work, it is hard to chose between them - the community and social aspects, the performance and play at the beginning of the process, the meditative state of technical execution in the studio. I think the wonder of that moment with the composition comes from the sense that I might have done something that will survive me.
Q: Who or what inspires you?
A: At the root of what inspires me is how people function and interact. I’ve always found psychology and philosophy fascinating, and literature is laced with such investigations, so I turn to reading when I am starting a new body of work. For this series, for example, I started by returning to Ariosto’s Orlando Furioso, an Italian epic poem from the 1500s; I was drawn to a chapter in particular that involves a trip to the moon laden with cryptic clues about the human condition and the role of the artist in society, and from there developed the work.
D: Describe your own personal style.
J: Classical. Comfortable. Elegant. At least that’s the objective.
D: Tell me something surprising about yourself.
J: I have a great love of all things sci-fi and fantasy. Although to me it makes perfect sense: they are modern epics and myths; worlds built for the joy of discovering what our imagination can reach as well as presenting a mirror to our reality.
Juliette is wearing:
Image 1. Zenynep Kartal dress.
Image 2. Milo Maria top and trousers, Aquascutum trench coat and Paul & Joe boots.
Image 3. Zenynep Kartal dress.
Images 4 & 5 Uniqlo top, Barrus trousers and Sari silk which played a huge role in the development of the drapery in the paintings.
Huge Thank You to Kirstin Hjellegjerde for allowing us a free rein to play in the gallery. And to HPR for their help.
Tuesday, 17 July 2012
Out and about....a portrait of the artist
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| From Fashionistable |
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| From Fashionistable |
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| From Fashionistable |
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| From Fashionistable |
Labels:
All Saints,
Art,
Artist,
Barnet Fair,
Cos,
Dvora,
Fashionistable,
Kenzo,
London,
London Street Style,
Portrait of the artist,
Spitalfields market,
street fashion,
Street style,
Vicky Zhang
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