Showing posts with label women empowering women. Show all posts
Showing posts with label women empowering women. Show all posts

Monday, 13 December 2021

Focus on FashMash Pioneers Rosanna Falconer and Rachel Arthur

Rachel Arthur and Rosanna Falconer founded FashMash at the beginning of the digital revolution as a space where they and their peers could come together, share ideas and navigate their way through this new exciting media. This approach was unheard of before in fashion but as they were all laying new foundations it became a nurturing place to grow and inspire. Over the past decade FashMash has continued to evolve and grow and recently with the introduction of their mentoring programme will continue to be a nurturing space for future generations too. Read how Rachel and Rosanna’s career paths brought them together how they set up FashMash, what its aims are and what’s coming next.

 


Starting with Rachel’s story

 

D: I would like to start by asking, where did you grow up?

 

Ra: Mainly in Hampshire, I was born there and spent the majority of my childhood there, but we lived in the States for a few years in San Francisco. I was six when we came back and that’s where all my earliest memories are, it made quite an impression on me.

 

D: What do you think your early influences where? Do you think any led you to the path you are taking now with your work on the environment, social justice and fashion?

 

Ra: I was really obsessed with fashion, or more to the point, art and textiles. The environmental side I think came from the fact we lived on the edge of the New Forest on what had been a working farm before my parents bought it, and next to a farm. It was this environment that influenced me to be vegetarian to love nature and be outdoors. I think a lot of it was that from a childhood perspective. Then when I was older I did quite a lot of travelling and spent time in places that I knew my family had loved. My grandfather had spent a lot of time in India in the war, and I really felt the need to go to there. It had a huge impact on me in terms of understanding the differences in wealth and the wealth gap. Although a lot of that was around justice and the haves and have not’s, it was also around the beauty that came in life otherwise: being outdoors, the beauty, the nature. I have in the back of my mind the most beautiful image of travelling through rural India and seeing women with their silk saris, laid out across the rocks and washing them and the colours being absolutely unbelievable. This left a huge impression on me on the role fashion plays in all sorts of cultures. It was the same with time I spent living in Africa, which had been my grandmother’s influence. I felt really strange coming back home, especially after the trip to India, and going into an industry that felt very superficial. It sat at odds with me for a really long time, until I got my head around working on the sustainability side of things and making sense of it together.

 

D: Was there a family influence for you on the fashion side of things?

 

Ra: I think it was probably my grandmother on my dad’s side, because she used to make all her own clothes. She was really into that and into fashion and had lots of things that we could borrow. And mum as well, we always had loads of her old clothes that we dressed up in. 

 


 

D: Do you think there's a defining moment that changed everything for you?

 

Ra: I think the trip to India was massively impactful. I went on a volunteer programme between my university degrees and at the time I remember coming back and mum saying how changed I was. I found it really hard to come to terms with a really materialistic lifestyle. I am sort of surprised now that I didn't totally shift my focus at that point but am really grateful that I didn't because I can see that it led me on this path. One of the first articles I wrote for a local newspaper when I came back from India, before I went to do postgrad journalism at Cardiff, was on sustainable fashion because it was just starting to percolate. It was 2005/2006, so 15 years ago now and those conversations were just starting, some brands existed, but people were still questioning, is this something people will be interested in from a fashion point of view?

I think what fully brought me back to this focus was in 2017. I had already been doing other things leading up to it, such as in 2016 when I did a TED talk on sustainability. But I then took a pause for personal reasons and was afforded the luxury of being able to go and explore a bit; to focus on finding some sort of purpose. It was one of those experiences that was tough at the time, but looking back now was the best thing that happened to me. I went to Bali for a while, which was incredible because it was really grounding from both a spiritual standpoint and when it came to selfcare. But it also helped me get perspective on things and what I wanted to be doing.

 

Shortly after, I also went to Shanghai on a trip with the H&M Foundation. They run the Global Change Awards and they were doing a programme with innovators taking them to different markets. It was incredible because I got to see things on the ground through factories in ways I hadn’t actually done before. It was a year that was a real awakening for me around why I was doing all of these other bits within the industry when I only wanted to focus on sustainability. It reminded me that that was and is where my true interest lies and where the most work needs doing, so it was time to get fully back to it 100%. 

 

D: What were the factory visits like?

 

Ra: It was really eye opening. I hadn't seen mass production on this scale before. Obviously, it was a good H&M factory because they wouldn't have shown us anything else, but seeing the sheer volume of things that are going through and the sheer volume of people involved was really mind blowing. I have a video of a woman sat connecting a cuff to a sleeve and that's all she did all day. You see how much hand work is involved even in that stage, and that's all she did all day, that one same thing over and over again, and then there are hundreds more of her doing the same. It was really good to be able to see it and recognise how many people are involved even with the cheapest product. It was very humanising.

 


 

D: You mentioned your TED talk, you and Rosanna do a lot of talks and interviews. Was that the first big talk that you had given? What's it like to get up on stage, no notes in your hand and speak and to remain composed and calm?  Where did you learn that side of things?

 

Ra: I had done quite a lot of speaking at that point, but obviously nothing on that scale, or with that sort of intensity. One of my main reasons for saying yes was that you got six months training and I thought this is going to be the most incredible experience in terms of somebody helping me, to shape not just what I'm talking about, but how to talk about it, and how to present. It was amazing. The thing is, because you practice so long, you know it word for word, it's not something that you decided to do overnight, you really know it. And they teach you tricks in terms of how to remember your flow, little things like you visualise it going round the room. I had slides so mine was visualised by the slides I was flicking through, but the amount of adrenaline that went through me when I did it, it was so intense. It was really fun though to do something so incredibly focused, I'm still really proud of it. It’s five years old now so a bit dated and could do with a refresh, but the premise of it still stands around this industry needing to change.

When I look at my career the red thread that's been through it is not actually particularly sustainability, but change. That's the thing that I've tracked from the beginning, and sustainability was there at the beginning in terms of writing articles and talking about what was coming. But change more broadly was what I focused on in my first job as trend forecaster at WGSN. I was there for eight years, at the peak of the digital transformation years, and that was of course how I met Rosanna. For me, I've always kept up with what's coming next, and what's the main thing the industry needs to be focused on, so that went through being about digital transformation and wider innovation, then back into sustainability.

 

D: Would you see yourself as a futurist?

 

Ra: No. My focus is on systems change, so I would say I am a systems change thinker or a systems change strategist. I’m about transformation essentially. I think if you were to use a real catchphrase for it, it would be less futurist and more changemaker. It’s more active than a futurist, which makes it sound more like you have a vision.

 


 

D: You touched on the strategic side of your work, what does that involve, can you tell us a bit more about that?

 

 Ra: If we are going to shift this industry, we really need to think about what that looks like as a whole system; so in terms of the socio-economic model and where the fashion industry fits into that. I made a decision when I left my last job to really only focus on things that I considered to be genuinely game changing in their efforts, so that they would start to shift the industry in the direction it needs to go in. Since then I have been working on projects I really believe in, like for Google on how we bring greater accuracy to the fashion supply chain in terms of understanding the impact of different environmental factors though their access to data and computing power. I have been leading strategy on this project with them for three years now.

 

D: Does it feel good to be in a big business driving this?

 

Ra: It feels very meaningful. For me that is the main word I realised I wanted to feel; that I was working on something meaningful and not something that was just helping a business make more money, as I had already spent so many years doing that. This is a non-commercial project for Google, so it’s doing exactly that. And the resulting platform we’ve developed for the industry has enormous potential in terms of what it could change.

 

My second project is in a similar vein. My question to myself was ‘if I could work in one place where would it be?’ That led me to the UN and I landed a position at the Environment Programme working with the public advocacy team on sustainable fashion. My remit is writing a strategy around the power of narrative to drive cultural and values change, or how we communicate sustainable fashion, which I guess brings me back full circle to being a journalist and being in the communication side of this world. This work is the most rewarding I’ve ever focused on. 

 


 

D: What do you think drives you?

 

Ra: I have thought about this question so much. A few years ago when I worked for a company focused on driving innovation within fashion businesses, I was asking myself that a lot: ‘what's the purpose of this business and what's my purpose as an individual?’ When you start to look at it through the lens of a small company, because you've got overheads, it constantly keeps coming back to ‘how do we make money?’ and ‘how do we make money for these businesses, so that we can make money for our our business and pay our staff?’ And that's just not what I wanted to be doing in terms of the ultimate focus of my day-to-day. I don't really care about making money. I've been very fortunate in my life, and I'm very, very aware of that, but I talk all the time with my partner about what we would be willing to strip back for happiness and where does that actually sit? When I think about that applied to my career, I've been so focused on strategy and business I could, if I really wanted to, drive myself hardcore into a big organisation that could be incredibly lucrative, but I am not motivated by it. Obviously as a mother now, I want the flexibility, but I also really want to work on something that is meaningful, that is going to drive change in a meaningful way, which is really, really much easier said than done, but that's why I love working how I do now. Because I’m surrounding myself with people that I believe want to do work that drives change, as opposed to that helps others solely make money, and that's a really big difference. Over the last two years, it’s the first time I've been in the position, where I can make my decisions based on ‘is this is going to change things’ as opposed to ‘is this going to make money’. 

 

 


 

D: What change would you like to see?

 

Ra: Oh my gosh, haha so much. I think it comes down to this whole view of how we change the system. How do we fundamentally shift an entire culture of what we believe fashion to be about? It’s a massive ask, but if I was to really pin it down, it’s how do we rethink value and values? How do we say as an industry that what we care about is not only about making profit? And as people, that it’s not only about material wealth and clothing as status. And as a result, thinking around wellbeing for other people, care of the planet and all of those elements that are so important for the future of humanity, but are so easily discarded because we're caught up in a capitalist system. It's very big in terms of its ambition, but I think we have no choice but to be thinking in that space, and I think there are very few people who actually are on the ground level with this industry.

 

D: People talk about the fashion industry being able to pivot quickly. They can pivot quickly as far as different seasons are concerned, but it's such a big lumbering beast. If it could pivot quickly there wouldn't be people living in squalor creating our clothes.

 

Ra: There is one single line that I think has had the most impact on me in terms of making me focus in my career, and it was a line from the Global Fashion Agenda's annual report, about how overall stainability efforts of the sector are being outpaced by its growth. Which means any reduction in impact that was happening was essentially irrelevant, because the growth of the industry was happening so much faster, and that's what blew my mind the most. It made me sit back and be like, what am I doing? You make all of these tiny tweaks to be more sustainable, by working within an innovative business and launching some cool little pilot, but it's not changing anything because they're upping the volume of

what they're producing all the time. The we as consumers are continuing to up our consumption too. That for me has been the biggest thing in terms of recognising what needs to change. We need to strip back what we produce, but do so in a way that protects the livelihoods of the people that are involved in the whole industry.

 

D: The overproduction is phenomenal, if you look at in thirds, a third is sold at full price, a third is sold at sale price and a third goes straight to landfill.

 

Ra: Maddening completely maddening.

 

D: All that planetary resource.

 

Ra: And human resource. The human capital involved in this is astonishing. When you start to strip that down in terms of justice and you see the way these things have a knock-on effect, the planetary impact, the impact on the people, but also how that's only going to increase overtime, with the more damage that we do, those people will be on the front lines in terms of climate damage.

 

D:  It’s happening already in Bangladesh there's a mass movement away from the coast because it's going to be underwater. It’s where a lot of the clothes are being made and where climate change is felt the most.

 

Ra: We are so disconnected from that when we sit in our nice houses here in the UK. Even though we know that the climate crisis is also impacting us in our country. We are so removed from it, or more to the point, we are so removed from it when we scroll through Instagram, and we walk into Primark. Or we scroll through Boohoo, or whatever. We are so removed from that sense of what it's like to be on the ground in Bangladesh or in India, any time as a garment worker, let alone during Covid.

 

D: Covid really pulled all that into sharp focus. But you know again is everybody hearing this or only those who are listening?

 

Ra: Exactly.

 


 

Rosanna’s story

 

D: Where did you grow up.

 

Ros: I grew up in the Cotswolds, The funny thing is, growing up there, you don't really realise that it's beautiful you think that’s how the rest of the world looks. I remember when I moved to London and would come back, particularly in spring, you open the window in the morning and think this has to be a postcard, it can't be real life. The views in particular in the village are: lots of undulating hills and sweeping views.

 

D: How many sisters do you have?

 

Ros: I have two sisters, an older one who's a photographer and a younger one who is a presenter and podcaster. A very creative set.

 

D: Did you have any early influences in fashion?

 

Ros: My granny. She was the most elegant person I've ever met, and very coordinated in what she wore, the nails to match the lip, to match the handbag, to match the shoe, in that traditional way in which women used to dress. It was such an art. It's so different to what we do nowadays, because she also really looked after her clothes. I inherited a few cardigans and I can still wear them now. They are so immaculately looked after. My grandfather was the same: he had his suits tailored on Savile Row in the 1930s/40s. My husband inherited his plum velvet dinner jacket which is still in perfect condition – he wore it in the evening of our wedding day.

 

D: That's also the joy of things being beautifully made.

 

Ros: Exactly. When I went to the Wimbledon book fair, Orsola de Castro was speaking about that attitude and that approach to the longevity of your clothes. I really admired the way my granny dressed. Apart from that I remember we used to have Vogues in the house... My sisters and I would host fashion shows, my older sister is very good with a sewing machine and still makes her own clothes, so we would wear her designs and that was really fun. In a way it was quite a creative village, Isabella Blow and Plum Sykes also lived there.

Then I went to Cambridge University. It is one of those universities that has so many dynamic, exciting students. The student newspapers there are renowned; I was fashion editor at Varsity.

 


 

D: How did you get the fashion editor role at Varsity?

 

Ros: The fashion editor before me, is now fashion editor of the Times and the one before that is Quentin Jones (famed animator, photographer and director). How did I manage to get the role? It was taken very seriously, you had to be interviewed for it. I remembered arriving at the interview and being asked, ‘can you write?’. I did languages as my degree so obviously wrote essays, but I'd never written about fashion, but you know you wing it, and I obviously said the right thing. But don't get me wrong, I have been a fashion geek since I was 14, I had started learning all the names and becoming this weird encyclopaedia, of not only designer names, but I became obsessed with knowing all the journalists’ names including where they worked and what their interests were.

 

This fashion editorship was great for me because when I was trying to get internships in the summer holidays I actually had something fashion on my CV. I had never considered doing fashion at uni; I always wanted to go to Cambridge which only has traditional, academic degrees. At school I wasn't very cool but at Cambridge, because everyone is reallyhard-working you're suddenly amongst your people. It was the biggest relief to not really have to try socially anymore, to feel like I fitted in. I had the best time there. I look back on my time at Cambridge as halcyon days. The degree was great because it gives you powers of analysis and communication; that's why I'm confident speaking on stage now and writing, they were really good life skills that I learnt, even though I don't use my languages day to day.

 

D:  When you finished your degree was your was your first thought I want to work for the BFC?

 

Ros: In terms of internships, I knew quite early on that marketing or at least communications was the one for me. I had a pipe dream of maybe working at Vogue and entered the Vogue talent contest but did not succeed. I did a couple of internships with marketing teams at Fortnum & Mason, Browns and the British Fashion Council and started to appreciate the way communication skills could be used for business. I liked the practicality of that.

 

One of my final internships was at the BFC and it was intense. This was a time when the BFC had two full time members of staff and would bring in freelancers for Fashion Week. The Mayor of London at the time – Boris Johnon - gave them a grant which meant that they were able to expand the staff. They gave me a call about 3 months after I graduated saying that based on the internship, would I like to come and interview to be marketing assistant, and that's where it all began.

 

Those were the days of hard graft, also I'm a millennial, I was really ambitious but, quietly so. I stayed very happily, patiently, as an assistant for four years. I remember soaking it all up and trying to be as diligent, and helpful as possible, while being aware of where I fitted into the company. It was an interesting time because after about six months it became apparent that the digital revolution was upon us, and at the time the main marketing for London Fashion Week was printed guides. The website was coming to the fore, then lo and behold another six months later, we launched Twitter. Then suddenly, because of the digital revolution I was catapulted into conversations with the senior leadership.

 

It was such a fascinating position to be in and one that with hindsight I realised was a big deal. Yet at the time and the same goes for a lot of the founding FashMash members, who were in a similar position to me at brands like McQueen or Burberry, none of us realised the significance because it was our day job and we were doing it, and we were learning as we did it.

Also, it was a fascinating time to be at the BFC, because it was the 25 year anniversary of London Fashion Week, so there was a massive drive to make London, really buzzing again. Burberry came back, Jonathan Saunders came back, Temperly came back, Matthew Williamson came back, and suddenly it went from the highlight of the schedule being Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label which was a diffusion line, as she was showing her gold Paris, to suddenly a schedule replete with all of these big names. 

 


D: Great again for your communication side and an understanding and learning of emerging social media.

 

Ros: Also, in terms of networking too: it's how I met Rachel, it's how I met Matthew Williamson… It equipped me with a very good address book of contacts too.

 

D: From the BFC you then went on to work with Matthew Williamson.

 

Ros: He was my favourite designer. I would always make a beeline for him at BFC events in an effort to network!

 

D: Is this because of all the colour, because you are always so colourful?

 

Ros: When I was geeking out as a 14-year-old, I saw Kate Moss and Jade Jagger on the cover of The Times in his first collection, which was spring/summer 98, Electric Angels. Jade was in a lemon top and a purple skirt and Kate Moss was in a pink slip dress with a turquoise cardigan, I actually managed to find that cardigan on eBay while I was a student and I wear it still. (Rosanna went and got the cardigan from her wardrobe to show me), so this is from his very first collection and Kate was wearing that, not this exact one, but one like it. So he'd always been my favourite designer and whenever I saw him at an event I would always go up and introduce myself, tell him what I was doing. Then I got an email from him when I was five or six years into the BFC, I was certainly more senior by then, asking me to come in for a chat. He was seeking a Head of Digital to launch the brand’s digital strategy. There began my new career path. I was at Matthew Williamson for six years and it was a dream fulfilled.

 

D: You certainly always seemed very happy.

 

Ros: When I started there, I was head of digital, then I became communications director and finally I was business director. My favourite role in the business was definitely communications director, I felt like it was really using all my skills to the best.

 

I learned so much from being at Matthew Williamson because it was completely different to the British Fashion Council. It was my first experience of retail, it was my first experience of ecommerce. I really thrived off getting to know about sales, getting to know about buying and getting to know about the other aspects of fashion. It's given me such a rounded fashion education which as a consultant gives you such a broad view. Even though nowadays I tend to specialise in brand consultancy, brand voice, brand story, brand communication, social media and influencer. 

 

D: When on your journey did you become aware of supply chains and the ethical and sustainable side of fashion. When did that come into focus for you?

 

Ros: Happily at Matthew Williamson my experience of that was not tarnished because it was small production runs in comparison to a lot of luxury brands. It was a small team, so the design team would go out three times a year to Mumbai and work directly with the factories, the studios, the ateliers. I remember the design team coming back from one of those trips, very upset because they found a cowshed where a designer - a big, massive luxury brand - was having trainers embroidered and the conditions were horrendous. They evoked that for me with such colour that I was really, really shocked.

 

Rana Plaza had happened and the High Street had already been vilified. We thought that we were in this bubble of luxury fashion, and with the prices and the margins that meant that a fair wage was being paid. I feel this is important and it's something that Rachel I are really passionate about. So often when people think about sustainability they only think about the environment, as it's more tangible, more fixable, but the social side is actually the more shocking one. I think High Street brands in particular like to focus on the environment because it's so easy for them to say, ‘oh we use non toxic dyes’ and ‘oh we fixed that, we use organic cotton’ that means nothing.

 

Once I’d left Matthew Williamson, Dolly Jones (ex-editor of Vogue.com) got in touch asking me to become a contributor to the new Eco-Age magazine which she was launching. I learnt a huge amount through writing and contributing to Eco Age, so that was really fascinating in my journey, and getting to know a lot of young brands and what they were doing, as FashMash pivioted a lot more into sustainability too.

 

I think that there are moments, little high points where I think, oh, that was a wake-up call for me in term of sustainability. But it wasn't one moment of epiphany. I think that's why it's so integral to me now, because of that slow build-up of a feeling, and a realisation.

 

 

D: Since we have had Covid I think it will be interesting to see how fashion businesses react to this, as you know and what you highlighted, was the human aspect and that has been brought into sharp focus with the pandemic, slavery is rife in the supply chain and if you think, well, you have a daughter now, can you imagine that in three or four years’ time that she would be going to work?

 

Ros: Oh my God terrified.

 

D: And there are children now that age working in the fashion supply chain.

 

Ros: That was one of the key points that Orsola brought up, she said something like, we all like to find one victim and one solution and the culprit is fast fashion. But it's not, it's just as much luxury. We all need to be way more aware.

 

D: It is good to use our voices to keep the brands aware that we are watching. And you can use all your communication skills for that too.

 

Ros: Even though my specialism is communications, more often than not, particularly because of the renown I got through doing my work with Eco Age I am being asked how to communicate sustainability in an appropriate, non-greenwashing way.

 

D: One last question for now, have you always been very colourful?

 

Ros: As a child I have vivid memories of choosing bold colours on our biannual shopping trips – yes, that infrequent – I love that attitude to shopping! I loved an orange T shirt with a bright pink flower on. I also had floral leggings with a matching floral tee shirt and matching floral baseball cap... So I've always been drawn bright colours.

 

In my 20s I did go through a phase of wearing black because I worked at the BFC and thought that was the professional ‘look’. It was so great for me to go to Matthew Williamson and be able to embrace colour and realise that colour can be worn in a highly professional way. I think that actually energises your team.

 

One of the really great things we learned from one of the FashMash mentoring career development sessions last year was from Musa Tariq. There were twelve mentees on the Zoom call, all wearing black and he pointed out he wouldn’t be able to differentiate any of them after the call. He said, ‘on the next session I want you all wearing colour, I want you to have thought about your Zoom background, I want you place something interesting next to you.’ Colour has such power.

 

 

 

D: How did you how did you both meet?

 

Ros: I met Rachel when I was at the British Fashion Council. She was a journalist at the time with WGSN.

 

Ra: Indeed, I was a senior editor at that point. I was there for eight years so I don't know what job role I had at the time, but I was interviewing, writing articles and also writing freelance. I think I always had the drive to do more than just the day job. So, I interviewed Rosanna, trying to get the inside scoop on what she knew the designers were going to be doing during Fashion Week that was digital.

 

Ros: We got on really well on the phone call and then met for coffee and realised very quickly that we had a lot of friends in common in the industry and started to think we should all get together, because we were all playing such a pivotal role in the way the British fashion industry, and I guess the fashion industry globally, was going. But we were all very young in our roles, and our roles were also pretty new as most of them were in digital. In the beginning digital roles were largely unsupported; they weren’t really well established like say a PR department with 30 people with a whole hierarchy. The first ever FashMash was drinks for 20 people at Soho House and I made cupcakes with everybody's Twitter handle on top. I remember it being fun getting to put faces to names, because these were people that we often spoke to on Twitter. In person you get to have a better connection. From there it grew quite quickly and we still continue to do these networking events. Rachel then moved to New York, which was fantastic because that meant we established a network over there too and New Yorkers are so brilliant at networking, unlike us Brits. The head of PR at Matthew Williamson was really struck with the concept saying it would never happen with senior industry PRs. We would very happily brainstorm and talk about ideas over drinks but that was unique: the fashion industry is notoriously confidential and they play their cards close to their chest.

 

Ra: And exclusionary.

 

Ros: Exactly, but because digital was so nascent and every idea was new it was much more collaborative and welcoming.

 

Ra: Yes, I think that was a massive part of it. We talked about that a lot at the time, that we could share ideas because at the start nobody knew what they were doing really, everybody was sort of working it out as they went. A peer group was therefore important. At that point it was wholly focused on digital transformation, so everybody was in social media or ecommerce or marketing roles.

 


 

D: Tell us about FashMash, and what you do.

 

Ros: FashMash is a business based on shaping the future of fashion and that is through a suite of networking tools and events. A year and a half ago all of that was physical, and we had a very successful speaker series called FashMash Pioneers, which would attract household names as speakers and audiences of up to 200-250. Then there would be networking drinks afterwards. We would also have members networking drinks bi-annually and we would team up with brands like Google and SNAP to host those events. Plus we often hosted more intimate events like lunches for members to discuss a particular topic. Then the pandemic hit and we realised that we needed to pivot very quickly to digital. In some areas that was easier than others, for instance the speaker series transferred very easily to webinar, which in many ways was great because it meant we could have an international audience. The intimate lunches that I mentioned now work very well as a monthly series where we have a particular topic of concern for the industry that might be the circular economy or innovation in the industry and we have been hosting those via a Zoom lunch instead.

 

It’s also worth saying that the pandemic and the Black Lives Matter movement in June was a catalyst for launching our mentoring scheme, which had been in planning for quite some time: FashMash Young Pioneers. It launched last year with a cohort of 12 mentees chosen for their talent and brilliance, and is focused on raising up those from low socio economic and ethnic minority backgrounds and teaming them up with twelve of our most senior members from the FashMash community. Alongside monthly mentoring sessions we ran a career development programme, with speakers from everyone like Musa Tariq, who I mentioned earlier, was so brilliant on how to dress for Zoom. We had a talk about HR with the BFC’s HR consultant, a talk about law, and one that touched on mental health. The programme was a huge success. One mentee now has a job with her mentor because they got on so well and pretty much all of the cohort are still meeting up regularly with their mentors. It also caught the attention of the press: WWD, Glamour and Drapers all ran stories, so we're really thrilled with how it went and we are looking to repeat it.

 

Ra: What was also really interesting for us when Covid started was that it gave us the ability, having both just had children, to really pause and say okay, so why does FashMash even exist? What is it here for? We didn't start as a business, we started it as a networking drinks event. We started it as friends, but people that didn't know each other that well. And it evolved over time and became a partnership and business that we both completely love. But we hadn’t ever really sat down and said, what our objectives and why do we do this? Also what do we want to be doing? What’s that balance between what does the industry need, what would be lucrative and what do we want to do? Those things don’t necessarily sit hand in hand and we decided to really focus on what it was that we wanted to do, because we were doing this as a side project alongside our day jobs and it had to be something we were passionate about. When we stopped and really focused on it, our original intention for the business, which had been around encouraging dialogue and sharing of ideas through networking, hadn’t changed, that was exactly the same as it was, coming up to nearly 10 years ago. It was really interesting to think that even though the world had changed around us and the industry had evolved so much, that intention of the way that people converse and collaborate is fundamentally what's going to change everything, and that's what we consider to sit at the heart of FashMash. Also, where the mentoring programme then came in was that we could also, even though it's only on a case-by-case basis with these individuals, begin to shape more change in the industry, through diversity and through helping these young people progress, through opportunities that they didn't have access to otherwise. We both come from a place where we had huge access to opportunity, just by being white and middle class and that isn't the same for so many other people. We both were utterly blown away by the applicants we got, and then the 12 mentees who made it through that process, that we got to know as individuals, they're way more advanced than we were when we were in our young 20s, in terms of the amount of things they've done, the amount of things they want to do, the ambition they have - all of their CVs are incredible. But I think it's also the attitude that goes with it and that's been really illuminating, but also so rewarding to work with the mentees and to continue doing so alongside what we both do as our day jobs. 

 

D: You are driving the conversation forward for the future of fashion, but what are your next aims with that and FashMash, what would like to see happen?

 

Ra: Really good question, I think that is around how we shape the next mentoring programme and what that looks like for our next intake. I think both of us are very passionate and very optimistic about FashMash and we're also realistic about what it can achieve, but also what we can manage. We love doing it and I think we will continue to do it for a long time. I think the conversations and the speaker series and everything are so enjoyable and so rewarding to do, but the mentoring programme really opened our eyes to the fact that, even as a really small business and as two individuals working on it as a side project, we can really make an impact. Even if that impact is only on an individual level, like the person who got a new job out of it.

 

Ros: Also, the great thing about the mentoring scheme is that it felt it was a long-term project. This is a group of people that you're checking in with, that we were seeing at least fortnightly. With the speaker series and so often in general with events, particularly with online ones, you feel afterwards, what really did people gain from that, what was their feedback, what are their takeaways from it? You do have some, but it's not that nourishing long-term collaborative relationship that we got through the mentoring scheme, which is highly rewarding.

 

RA: That's true; being able to follow through on these things. The other thing I was going to say, one of the things we've been thinking and talking about a lot in all of our discussions, has of course, over this last year been heavily around the impact of Covid, but also the impact of sustainability within Covid times, and the role that diversity plays within all of that. I think FashMash and particularly the mentoring programme brings all of those things together. It's a bit like we were talking earlier around climate justice and the individuals that are on the ground, and I think one of the things that we recognise and I think the industry as a whole is recognising, is how important it is that within the change and transformation that's being driven, that diversity is a core part of that. They are not separate conversations - racial justice, climate justice and social justice are not separate, and we know that helping to lift those voices through our mentoring scheme within the same sustainability conversation is absolutely crucial, and that intersectionality is core. Some of the people we've had on this programme, are so incredible. Sometimes you meet someone whose voice is going to be such an important voice in the future of this part of the industry, it’s amazing. I already see that with some of the ones we’ve met – people who are going to be one’s to really, really watch, even though they are still fresh graduate’s and only been in their job’s year or so. I think that's what's really exciting, to think that you can help spotlight some of those voices and help them gain more access to opportunities that help get them to their full potential that, maybe they wouldn't have been able to access otherwise.


 


 

D: How do you see the future? You have been together 10 years, what’s next?

 

Ros: We have an annual summit where we getaway, which didn't happen last year because of Covid. This year during a staycation together we discussed the future and made our plans for the coming year. I'm not really one for a five year or even a two-year plan, I think particularly for people like Rachel and I, we always have a lot going on in the near future. Right now, it's pulling off the next version of the mentoring scheme and ensuring that we do so with the same care as the first cohort. I really believe that even though it was all online we really valued and wanted to learn and spend time with each of those mentees and equally the mentors, who give up a huge amount of time, they are really senior in their jobs, or are company owners.

 

D: I guess if you if you have a five or two year plan it doesn't allow you to pivot so quickly.

 

Ros: True. Who would have thought we would even have had to do this over the last year?

 

D: You will have seen so much change in the last 10 years.

 

Ros: A lot of our members are saying that we were right to approach the digital revolution with such an open mind and that's the way people need to approach the next 10 years. In many ways, that could be tough. When you look at the generation before us, at the start of their careers, of course they had that open mind. But then you start cruising, you gain seniority and your focus becomes your family. But actually, you need to keep that same fighting attitude.

 

D: I would say that I was guilty of that I took my eye off the ball and then was really surprised that nothing had changed and was like OMG, I have to get back on this, it's like come on.

 

Ros: Wow that's really interesting,

 

Ra: I think that's really easy to do, I think you get into your 30s or late 30s as I am now and think that, that's where you are going to hit your peak, it’s what you're building up to, especially when you decide as Rosanna and I have, to have children a little bit later relatively speaking, although it’s quite normal now. You are focused on your career all this time. A few years ago I read an article when I was living out in New York, written by a woman who I think was based in Australia, it was her 60th birthday and she had written a letter to her 30 year old self. The whole premise of the piece was to say, chill out, you don't need to try and achieve everything by your 30s. That actually you've got another 30 years of your career. So when you stop to think about how much more time there is within your career, comparative to how much you've done already, we’ve still got longer than we’ve already had. That's mad - there is still loads of time to achieve things. But, because we, especially as women, have this belief that life stops once you have kids, or life stops once you hit 40 in terms of your career, in terms of the drop rate of people at executive level, it's really interesting to recognise that, no actually, you can still achieve things, particularly when it comes to change, success and everything else, and that I think is important.

 

D: Showing other women, that this is possible. My surprise was that things hadn't changed at all, that women still weren't in the leadership positions that they should have been. That gender inequality was still systemic, it hadn't changed whatsoever. I am the eldest of four daughters and was always fighting for us all to be able to do certain things, I couldn't understand why my male cousins were allowed to do things that we weren't allowed to do. This is ridiculous, why are you stopping me from doing these things? It felt like a driving force and it still feels like a driving force now.

 

Ra: Yes, my mum’s the same, she is one of four daughters and I am the eldest of 12 cousins who are predominantly women – there are nine women - and it's been the same thing.

You asked about influences earlier - my mum worked full time my entire life and that was really rare. Not everybody's mums did and full credit to everybody making their own decisions, but that had a massive influence on me and my sister. I think there's a lot to be said for those role models. That’s another thing with our mentoring programme, it’s giving opportunity to people so other people can see what they can be. It’s so important and obviously from a diversity standpoint that gets talked about a lot. We had one of our mentors say that a lot of the time she is the only woman of colour at the table. How do we encourage more women of colour into this as well?

 

Ros: You know FashMash isn't really about Rachel and I, it's about the network and it's about the community that we've built. We are the hosts, the interviewers and the organisers and in many ways the catalysts, we do make things happen. But FashMash’s strength and its ability to strike this change is through the community and that's what's so exciting.

 

Ra: That's true.

Links:

FashMash 

Rachel

Rosanna

Instagram:

FashMash

Rachel

Rosanna

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 


Thursday, 11 November 2021

Focus on Tamsin Chislett and Natalie Hasseck Founders of Onloan

 

What if your wardrobe was empty, but you always had something to wear? Onloan is a great rental membership based fashion rental company that allows us to rethink how we own clothing. Instead of having a wardrobe full of clothes that you only ever wear 20% of. How about having your wardrobe live elsewhere and are able to switch it up monthly feeling good in the knowledge that each garment will be worn on numerous occasions, will help slow the pace of overproduction and consumption and reduce waste.

Tamsin Chislett and Natalie Hasseck set up Onloan to do this and are the only rental company who source the clothing straight from designers. Here are their stories and the story of Onloan.

 

 

Starting with Tamsin's story

D: Were are you today? Are you in the studio?

 

T: We are in Dalston on Kingsland Road. We have a three storey building were we sit and work, take and pack the orders. Today we are packing orders. All the clothes are stored upstairs and then we do all the washing on the top floor. So, it's a whole warehouse slash, everything else.

 

D: Can I ask, where you grew up?

 

T: In Wilshire, in a house that's not even in a village, so very bucolic countryside middle of nowhere.

 

D: Big open spaces.

 

T: Lots of climbing trees, building dens, disappearing for a whole day. I had no concept of how bucolic it was until I had my own kids, in London, and realised the contrast between the two. My parents still live there, so I get to go back there to the house I grew up in which is nice.

 

D: And do you have siblings?

 

T: Two older brothers, I’m the youngest of 3.  One’s in Sweden and one’s in Cornwall now.

 

D: So you had plenty of pals then, to run around with in the middle of nowhere.

 

T: They are a bit older than me, so they were hitting their cool teenage years as I became anyway remotely interesting.  So more of a solitary countryside lifestyle, which is I suspect quite common if you grow up the countryside.  You have like 2 friends, but it was great, loved every bit.

 

D: Were there any fashion influences for you growing up? Or was it not on your radar at all?

 

T: It was so far of my radar, as I only have brothers not sisters. My mum always looks very nice but is not remotely interested in fashion. Living in the countryside was more practicality than anything else. I am 35 so I was growing up at the beginning of the fast fashion era. I would beg mum take me to Tammy girl at the weekends or New Look and then Top Shop when I got a bit older. But otherwise very little fashion influence at all. Pretty much until I start Onloan by the way. Between the two of us Natalie is the fashion head and she's fashion through and through and that's why we are a dream team. My background isn’t very fashiony.

 

D: You always had a social awareness though.

 

T: With social impact issues, yes. My parents are primary school teachers they, taught in state schools. I knew I would end up doing something that had a lot of meaning. Their whole career was about giving back and contributing to society. So I thought mine would be the same. The surprising thing was that I got into business and that was more of a university influence. Until then for the whole of my childhood I thought I was going to be teacher like my parents, as I only knew teachers.

 

D: That makes sense, it's what you know. Where did you go to university?

 

T: I went to St Hilda's college Oxford and studied PPE: philosophy, politics and economics. I didn't know when I applied that it was the politician’s degree. There are more British Prime Ministers that have done PPE than have done anything else. I had no idea. But having met the people doing PPE alongside me, there were definitely some ambitious political types. But I loved it. I chose it because I didn't want to narrow down to one subject at the age of 18. I wanted to keep doing 3. I also love that it was really a study of the world and what's going on in the world, from three different angles. It suited me really well. 

 

 


 

D: That led you to work for Bain and Co.

 

T: I took a year out after university and I thought I wanted to go straight into International Development. My dream job at the time was the UN or DIFID (Department of International Development). So I went and spent some time in Tanzania by myself and then in Nepal and basically realised I was pretty useless to them. I could write decent essays on philosophy, (laughs) which wasn’t going to help anybody. I met a few people who said if you go get some business skills that's going to be most useful thing to set you up for coming back to an emerging market and being helpful. And that's what it did. Bain is it's an amazing place to have a business education. They invest so much in training you. You get thrown in, at the deep end on a lot of things. You get to work with some of the biggest companies in the world. They work for Unilever, British Gas and other private equity firms. That persons’ advice was very good in terms of the fact I got the business education that they promised. The flipside of Bain is that there's not much impact. You are helping big companies make more money which didn't excite me at all. You are also a management consultant which is one step removed from the action and it turns out, as proven by Onloan I'm definitely a much happier person doing the thing, as opposed to telling somebody else what they might do.

 

D: During your time at Bain you took some time out.

 

T: My parents were shocked when I'd only done two years to the day, and I told them I was taking six months off already. The very first day I was allowed, I took six months off and went to Zimbabwe and worked for an organisation called TechnoServe who employ a lot of management consultants to support SMEs in emerging markets. I worked for a coffee mill in Zimbabwe. I felt a lot more useful than I had two years before. I could build them a financial model. Structure business cases for doing things, there was a lot that was helpful. On the flipside the Zimbabwean economy was in a pretty bad place. I wouldn't say we were very successful in helping the coffee mill, but I certainly felt like I had a lot more to give at that point.

 

D: Then you moved onto to Acumen.

 

T: Acumen is an impact investment firm primarily. They invest in companies, again in emerging markets, focused on businesses that have a positive impact on what they the call the bottom of the pyramid. That is people who have an income of $1.00 to $3.00 a day. They ran a fellows programme of 10 people who quit their jobs wherever they were in the world and then spent a year with one of Acumen’s investee companies. So I applied and became the only European representative that year. I ended up in Uganda, you are posted wherever they want to put you. You don’t get choose. I was immensely lucky to work for a cotton factory in the north of Uganda.

 

D: Was that your first experience with fashion and what we end up wearing?

 

T: Yes and it was the opposite end of the supply chain to everything I'm doing now. But it was my first foray into the fashion industry and understanding it. Literally from planting cotton seeds in the fields, it couldn't have been more the other end of the scale. I loved it. I was in Gulu which is the second or third biggest town in Uganda. But it's sadly been made famous by being the centre of the civil war for 20 years and Joseph Kony if you remember that whole situation? By the time I got there in about 2010 that was all over, and the World Food Programme that had been giving out food for 20 years had moved out and the first private sector businesses are moving in. It really was a phenomenal place to learn more about business, because we were the first big business in a whole region of a country. We were employing 400/500 hundred people at peak season. We were buying cotton from 18,000 farmers. It was their first ever cash crop, they had only ever grown food before. Every time I feel daunted by doing something online, I can easily think back to any day that I was working at that cotton ginnery and the problems of Onloan, seem very small in comparison. Whether it was fire risk, we had a really dry season and suddenly you could have your whole barn go up in flames. We had a couple of hairy moments with that. Or like the day that the cotton truck keeled over on the main trade route between Uganda and South Sudan blocking trade between two countries and it was my job to negotiate our way out of it. Or working with people who literally had never had a job before. They had never had an opportunity to work ever. Teaching them that you showed up at a certain time, step one. I guess it was the antithesis of my Bain education. Bain was how to operate on a high level in a really advanced economy and the cotton factory, was how to be incredibly entrepreneurial when there's no resources and no real rule of law, and you have to do everything on personal trust and relationship building. It was a great counterpart to Bain.

 

D: Were you able to work on soil health and the importance of crop rotation and that sort of thing with the farmers?

 

T: Exactly that. Out of 80,000 farmers we had organic certification with about 20,000 of them. So they were obviously learning about crop rotation and we were trying to introduce other cash crops they could rotate with. Whilst I was there, we had them start producing chillies which we were buying. Also, water saving techniques and using organic seeds. A massive education about using organic seeds. You get a lot of unscrupulous businessmen showing up and selling them pairable mass produced seeds. We became the first Fair Trade certified cotton ginnery in East Africa and I kind of lead that certification. I learnt a ton about how groups can self-organise also if I am honest the challenges of trying to fit into a lot of tick boxes which might make sense for a big organisation like Fair Trade but on the ground made no sense. Funny things like if you wanted to hold a meeting, you would have to send a letter to everyone you wanted to come to the meeting. That was more effort, a lot more effort than the actual meeting. But it was one of the boxes you have to tick. So there was a certain education in how some top down approaches aren’t helpful. All round though it was an amazing experience in terms of learning how the fashion industry, or textile industry, can have a really positive impact on a region and be a huge influx of cash and how people can be very self-reliant. Then as I left, sorry so it was 2012 to 13 because it was when I left that the Rana Plaza disaster happened. So I had, had this education about the positive impact of fashion and then, at the same time I left, this really horrible and shocking, event that made me re-evaluate my own shopping habits.

 

D: Because that's where the fabric was ending up. Did come back to the UK after Uganda?

 

T: I did, but first I spent another year there. My partner had followed me from Bain and he wanted to stay. So we stayed another year and I worked for a business that had sort of copied the Avon lady business model but sold everything you find in a pharmacy instead of makeup. So women going door to door selling, malaria treatments as well as other things. Which was also an amazing place to work. Then I came back to the UK and worked for a tech start up called Hire Space. I felt that the whole world had joined tech start ups by the time I came back (laughs). So I thought I would join the fun. Loved the team. But ultimately I had gone from helping to increase access to malaria treatments for under 5 year olds in Uganda, to a business that was primarily focused on helping corporates throw great events. So it didn't quite tick my impact boxes anymore.

 

D: It must have been a huge shock.

 

T: The culture shock coming back was probably bigger than the culture shock going out. Part of that is that you are not prepared for it. You think, Oh, I'm going home. I remember first getting back and feeling very overwhelmed by London and then a bit confused about my purpose and my work. 

 

 


D: After the tech start up was Onloan next?

 

T: There was one more move to Clearly So. So, I was one of those classic millennials, who you know hopped around every year or two in my 20s.

 

D: But that's a great thing. The expectation that you stay in one place for say 20, 40 years or whatever until you retire, is not the way it works anymore.

 

T: No at all anymore. And that is something I have to remember as a founder, because people will come in go from Onloan as well.

 

D: What did Clearly So do?

 

T: If you wanted to make sound cool, they are an impact investment boutique. They are really a corporate finance house. They help businesses to raise capital which I had, had a bit of experience of in Uganda for the cotton ginnery and I knew a bit about from my time at Bain. They primarily do it for young start ups and solely for businesses that have a positive social or environmental impact. Their reason for being is to try to link those businesses with investors who both want to make money and have an impact. They really want to have their cake and eat it, and their view is that you can. I did various things with them, I tried to launch them in up in Manchester and expand their work there. I headed up origination for a while, which means finding new companies to raise capital. Originating deals is what you call it, which meant that I ended up talking to hundreds of impact based start ups and that was when I thought actually, that's what I want to be doing.

 

D: Are you still doing some volunteering now?

 

T: I’ve been involved in a couple of things. One as a trustee for the charity called Bootstrap. That are really a co-working space here in Dalston but they pride themselves on getting together really interesting groups of either, social enterprises or creative enterprises and then they have a quite well known bar on the roof called Dalston Roof Bar. I was a trustee there for a couple of years. If I'm honest I would like to do the trustee thing again, but I realised I can't combine it with Onloan it's just too much work. The other thing I've been doing which I've really enjoyed is, I’ve been on the investment committee for a fund run by Unlimited which is one of the UK's biggest organisations supporting social entrepreneurs. They had a debt fund and I spent the last three years lending money to social enterprises. They are particularly focused on getting people back into work one way or another. I have been an investment committee member, which meant reviewing applications for debt as they come along and again it's really helped with Onloan, you really learn an awful lot formatting other businesses. It's been a privilege to have a Birds Eye view into some of them.

 

D: Before I speak to you both, what led you to want to set up in business on your own, with Natalie?

 

T: I think it had been brewing away for a while, for me. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience in Uganda, being in the thick of the action, rather than consulting and being one step removed. I really enjoyed aspects of working for Hire Space and the fast pace of a tech start up and how I love the fact that you never know what’s going to hit you on a particular day. That suits my temperament completely. I love that you have to work everything out as you go and again whatever the opposite of a routine is that's my happy place. It had been brewing and then I thought lets really go for it. I was meeting all these really focused impact entrepreneurs, who truly showed that you can be building a business that was going to improve the status quo. And I thought that actually, that’s how I'm going to make my mark on the world. My first thought was, what if I join one at a really early stage as I was speaking to a lot of them. But this idea started to percolate about fashion rental and I thought let's go for it. Natalie was the first person I called, and she always laughs because she said that’s because she is the only person I knew who worked in fashion. Which is kind of true, but I have known her for a while, and we got on. She is married to a guy that I worked at Bain with and knew at Oxford before. So we had, had this friendship for a few years. We weren’t close, close friends, but we used to go on holiday in extended groups together and would end up talking about sustainable fashion, so I knew she had all the credentials, but was also quite dissatisfied with the industries direction. So I called her up and invited her to do it with me. She said no, (laughs) and then about six months later and she said yes.

 

D: Brilliant well you know if you hadn’t asked.

 

T: Well, you know the idea didn't go away, it kept hounding her in her head. She only needed time to think.



 

Natalie’s story


D: Natalie where did you grow up?

 

N: I grew up in East Finchley, North London, super suburban part of London but my secondary school was in Kentish Town which is a bit more inner city. Which meant that from quite a young age I was travelling from the suburbs to town frequently.

 

D: Do you have siblings?

 

N: I have one sister called Lauren who is 4 years younger than me. She is a Yoga instructor so very, very different.  

 

D: Did you have any early fashion influences at all? Anyone in the house interested in fashion or was it only something you were interested in?

 

N: It's definitely in the blood. Mums, mum was always incredibly stylish and very eccentric and definitely used fashion as a mode of self-expression. So, I grew up seeing my grandma wearing lots of different amazing outfits. Every time I saw her, she was wearing something wonderful. She lived in New York, so she would visit us in London, or we would go to her. The whole thing was just so glamorous, but not the wealthy glamour. Glamorous in that she always did a head-to-toe look. It would be things she found in a flea market; she loved a flea market. She loved vintage she was always put together in a really interesting way. She was a Milliner in the Fifties, 40s and 50s when she was living in Australia with her ex-husband before moving to New York. Then on my dad’s side, my grandpa had two cousins and they both owned boutiques in London. One cousin owned Browns and one cousin owned Feathers. That’s where it all started for me, working at Feathers. It’s where I learnt who all these important designers were and was spoiled from such a young age in the understanding of what quality meant and how much quality cost. It meant that while my friends were buying cheap clothes from the high street, I was saving up, to buy really nice clothes that a 16/17 year old wouldn't normally be buying yet. But once you understand fabric and cuts and texture it's really hard to undo that learning. So that’s a bit about fashion in my blood.

 

D: It’s completely in your DNA.  Did you go to university at all or not?

 

N: I really wanted to carry on working at Feathers and wanted to do it full-time. I was learning so much and had also started doing all the window dressing. It got to the point where Suzanne and Peter trusted me with all the visual merchandising. After creating this one window, a stylist walked in and asked ‘who made this window?’ I said ‘it was me’ and she said ‘it's really great, have you thought about doing any styling assistance?’ and I said ‘no’, at that time I didn't even know what a stylist was, but she gave me her card and said ‘I'd love for you to come and work with me’. Having asked permission from Susanne and Peter I went to assist her, her name is Jilly Murphy a really good stylist in the 90’s. So, my first ever job with her was doing the cover of Good Housekeeping magazine with Sharon Osbourne and carrying Sharon's Pomeranians around, it was quite funny. I decided that’s what I wanted to continue doing, assisting stylists and working, but my parents were really keen on me having some kind of formal education. To make them happy applied for Marangoni an Italian fashion school in London, at the time it was the only place that offered styling as a course. I do wish I'd actually done something like English though, there's so many things that I feel I'm missing. It's funny being a founder figuring out how to structure certain things that I probably would have learnt on another course. But hey, ho I am on a different path.


D: Did you do anymore styling and fashion assisting?

 

N: I did loads. There was a point where I was assisting so many different stylists, I can't even remember all their names now. I reached out to everyone. I wanted to be on set all the time and learn how that whole operation works. It's definitely my comfort zone being on set probably because of all the assisting. Then I started to understand my personal taste, I had been busy absorbing as much as possible that I actually hadn't taken stock of what it was I actually liked. I started to become obsessed with W magazine which was amazing back in the day. W in the late 1990s to 2009 for me is still one of the best, best magazines that has ever existed. I became obsessed with it and the fashion director at the time. I became obsessed with her style and how she put things together. I applied to go and work with her and planned to live with my grandma in New York so the cost of living would be fairly low.  Actually, I have missed a step. After I finished Uni, I got an internship at Women’s Wear Daily. W magazine and WWD were owned by the same publishing house. I thought if I work at WWD then I would be one step closer to W magazine, not thinking of course that this is a trade publication with real fashion journalists. So, I took this fashion journalism internship which was ridiculous as I was not interested in doing anything journalistic at all, I really only wanted to be with stylists. But I used it as a tool to get me to New York. The WWD office was in Covent Garden and all the assistants from New York would call and ask the London office if they could organise clothes for editorials and shoots. The fashion editor had commissioned a styling story about Barbarella and the assistant called me saying ‘I’m too busy, I can’t do this, just find me some clothes I want this, this, this and this and I need it by the day after tomorrow.’ So, I found what he needed and sent it. Then my boss got a call to say I had done a really good job, without any real brief I had got what she needed. That was me inching towards eventually going and working in New York.

 

D: How long did you stay there?

 

N: Just under a year, and it was the worst experience of my life. The best thing but the worst thing. I couldn't believe that people were capable, I still can't believe that people are capable of behaving the way they did. It was, it was just horrific, it was fashion 15 years ago, before there was any kind of ‘woke’ reckoning or ‘me to’ reckoning. It was abusive and status driven, in a way that you can't even imagine. It was so insane to me. I was never allowed on set because I wasn't well dressed enough, and I wasn't thin enough, and all these other things. As a result, I was in the library the whole time, the fashion editor would say ‘I want to do a 1970s story, I'm thinking, these colours’, you know something like this, and then I would go and find the references and would then present the references. So, I spent that year learning who everyone was, every photographer in history. I developed a brain for visual referencing, I could watch a movie and be able to say, that frame comes from that photograph and that's what I spent the year doing. I had the most phenomenal time by myself in the library. I was in the Vogue library, sometimes sitting next to Hamish Bowles and all these other amazing people. I learnt who every designer, every photographer and every artist was, I voraciously lapped it up. That was my education.

 

D: Hopefully those stories have changed or are changing.

 

N: I really wish I could say they have but I had this really strange experience in a later job, I had an intern who I absolutely loved and she ended up going and working for W too even though she knew my back story before she went. I said ‘well, surely it will have changed because of the cultural conversation and this shift that's happened. It's really not cool to be mean anymore and also ultimately people are scared of being outed on social media.’ So, off she went, when she came back, she asked to meet me and said ‘I don't know what to tell you, it was also the worst experience I have ever had in my life. I she came back after three months, she couldn't hack it, she couldn't believe I had managed to stay a year. She's a beautiful mixed-race girl, and she had to deal with the whole race experience on top of it too, it is awful.

 

D: How long ago was this?

 

N: It was a year ago.

 

D: Oh, my goodness, with all the conversations that are going on now this was her experience too.

 

 


 

D: When you came back to London you worked with Mario Testino was that experience better?

 

N: I came back to London with my tail between my legs. I felt like I'd failed. I went back to Feathers and went back to working on the shop floor. I decided to start a blog called Layers and Swathes. I was writing about culture and trends where all those references I had spent a year becoming obsessed with came into play. The blog became a place to be able discuss all those references. I found that after delving into so much fashion history I was able to predict what was going to happen and because I was able to understand cycles of fashion history, I was able to make predictions of the future as well. So, I started predicting trends on the blog, it was kind of nuts. I was writing in tandem with journalists about things I thought might happen, then watching them happen, it was really cool. Then my blog was picked up by Susie Bubble who was the biggest blogger at the time. She had started reading my blog and spotlighted my blog on hers. She had a top ten blogs to watch list in the sidebar. I remember going out with friends and having a really big night, coming home and of course being a total geek, checking my stats which I did obsessively. Suddenly there was this huge spike. Soon after I got email from Mario Testino’s people saying that they wanted to meet me to talk about a trends related role.

 

D: Wow, that's something you would have never expected.

 

N: It was so wild, I will never forget seeing that email. I'll never forget that feeling. I remember just sitting at my parents, (I had moved back in with my parents,) sitting at the dining table, which is where I used to work, and almost wondering if it was a joke. I met this phenomenal woman, Georgina Godling who was Mario's right-hand woman and helped him set up his agency. She was reading the blog and felt that Mario needed to have someone feeding research into him, culture and trends and all the rest of that. That’s how I became Mario's researcher, picture research, trend researcher looking at new faces, models. That's how it started.

 

D: That's amazing, you unwittingly created this role for yourself.

 

N: Yeah, and it was really weird, no-one knew what to call my role either, but I was really happy to be there. At first, I was on a trial and then when they offered me the full-time role and I remember sitting there trying not to cry.

 

D: Did you manage to be on set there, with Mario?

 

N: Eventually I became an art director which meant I was mainly at a desk putting concepts and briefs together, but I was so happy, I wouldn't complain about not being on set, because it was it was so much better doing what I was doing. In my opinion anyway. It was great and I ended up staying just under four years.

 

D: You worked freelance for a while how was that?

 

N: Mario was asked to invest in a beauty start up, called Mina. He said he would invest in it if his team worked on the creative. Eventually I went on to become the Creative Director at Mina. It was really good timing, because I had already started to see cracks, in fashion and I could see the industry heading in a really bad direction. So I thought the side step into beauty would be a really smart move for my career. I spent a year doing that, but I don't really care about beauty as much as I do about clothes. I'm not a lipstick girl, I never paint my nails, it just doesn't talk to me, I'm not beauty orientated. So, I left and was freelance for maybe a year or two. Freelance was hard, but it was amazing, I look back at my lifestyle then and think ‘my god you had it so good’. I was able to do yoga 3 or 4 times a week, cooking for myself every day and not the rush of everything, but I was constantly scrabbling about financially.

 

D: Yep, the joy of freelance. Was the process of working with the make-up brand creatively similar?

 

N: Oh yes, it was mostly art direction, coming up with concepts, also I'm so used to working in a more esoteric….more…….I don’t what to sound too lofty, but I really love taking the temperature of how people are feeling, and then translating that into a concept that's quite emotionally driven. There's something quite functional about beauty and I would say by default I'm not functional person.

 

D: You have done some brand consulting. Who did you work for?

 

N: The biggest project I worked on was John Lewis and John Lewis’s big rebrand, which they did a few years ago, when they completely repositioned their womenswear offering. That was a nice big six month chunk of freelance work. I also tried to help Topshop out, but I only took that as a money job because at that point, I hated it as I was already into sustainability. Then I my trend research took quite interesting direction, because I was working with a few big brands eyewear suddenly became a bit of a niche. I worked with Chloe and Givenchy on their eyewear, and it was cool as I was sending them trend reports on shapes and materials and finishes and colours and it such enjoyable work. I could go to places like the Serpentine Pavilion and be able to say ‘oh it's all about cubes, or it's all about waves, it was so enjoyable, and then to seeing how a sculpture would suddenly become a pair of glasses.

 

D: You said that by that point you had become interested in the sustainability side of things what had triggered that?

 

N: The sustainability side had started while I was still at Mario, quite early on. What triggered it in particular was, there was a season I was putting a trend report together for Mario, and I noticed that far too many designers were coming up with exactly the same look-a-like collections and I thought this is just stupid. All this sh*t is going to be produced, I could literally see that they were running out of ideas. Nothing was new. Fashion was becoming entertainment. The Kardashians were becoming the most important thing ever, design was becoming almost redundant, quality, everything was bleugh, horrible. It turned my stomach, the thought of all this inconsequential rubbish being produced and being brought into this world. I started to pick that apart a bit more. Then I watched ‘True Cost’, I can't even remember how I found it, I wanna say it's 2014 or 2013 and that was the start of the end for me. Which is also why I went into beauty. It was too gross, I had to figure it out.

 

D: That kind of brings us up to Onloan doesn't it?

 

N: Yes.

 

D: You are a good combination of talents, you've got operations, process, strategy, trend forecasting, fashion consultancy and art direction between you. How did you both meet?

 

N: We met because my partner and Tamsin went to Uni together. They met at Uni and then they went on to work together. Then through the years Tamsin and I were meeting at a festival in the South of France that we all went to together.

 

D: So when did you set up Onloan? It’s a great name for what you do, how did it come about?

 

T: In the summer of 2018 I quit my job in order to start a business and I was looking around for great ideas and knew it would in sustainable fashion as its area I was super interested in making impact in, and realised that rental was about to have its moment in the UK. When that happened, I got going on the business whilst also working part time elsewhere and signed up our first two customers, by essentially saying to them, ‘I'm gonna buy something from Net-A-Porter and am going to give it to you to wear. Then you're going to give it back to me in in about a month and you're going to pay me for that pleasure. So, I had about 5 -10 customers running, and it seemed like there might be something here that could be turned into a business. That’s when I spoke to Nat about doing it with me, this was towards the end of 2018. She said no, the first time I asked her, famously said no. However over the subsequent months it became all she could think about and plotting and she realised, she needed to jump in, so started working on it with me, in early 2019. Then, we really launched the business September 2019, that's when we had a website and had some clothes, and our first set up. Of course, that was six months before a global pandemic.

 

N: The name Onloan comes from my retail days working at Feathers. We always had a rail which was the on loan rail. What that meant was that our super VIP customers would get to take clothes without paying for them, try them on at home, mixing them with their existing wardrobe to see how they felt about them. Then either keep and then pay for them, or return them, if it didn't suit. And I always thought that the privilege of doing that was the most fabulous thing ever. So, with the context of Tamsin’s ideas around rental Onloan felt like a really cool, succinct description of what it is that we're trying to do.

 

D: What are your aims with Onloan?

 

 T: We really want to build a platform that becomes the way that women of a generation enjoy fashion. We want to enable customers on mass, at a big scale in the UK, to really love clothes again. Not be weighed down by this feeling that they are participating in an industry which cycles through fashion so fast that the garments aren't loved or looked after and don't last, and have a big environmental impact without much without much pay off for the consumer. So we want to bring all that freedom and joy and frivolity back, and do that by building a business that has the very best clothes and who works the best designers. One that has a really great skill set in terms of keeping those clothes in great condition for a long time. And along the way building a phenomenal brand that really speaks to a modern woman and takes her on this journey with us.

 

D: How did you go about it and who do you work with?

 

T: As I mentioned at the beginning the very first move was to go and get some customers, literally buy them some clothes asking them to pay for them, and ask for the clothes back, which is a bit confusing at first. Of our first ten trial customers, nine are still customers which is good. We had customers renting, we were trialling different ways of working with them, different lengths of time, and different types of items. But we really settled on the idea that it was going to be a subscription service, with fairly long-term rental periods, to be able to enjoy the clothes and will mix them up their wardrobe for a while. We started in early 2019, building simple technology around that idea, and also bringing on our first designers. We started in February 2019 without much, I think we had a website, I can't member if we had the name of the business then. We definitely didn't have a chequebook, but we went off to Paris to pitch to a whole bunch of designers to come join the platform. Very lucky for us a whole number of them did and they became our founding brands. From there we built our website, added more customers, raised a our first bit of capital and headed towards a September 2019 soft launch. In many ways I feel like we've never launched, so we might yet have a lunch party.

 

D: Can you tell us how it works?

 

N: Our customers rent either two or four items, they get to wear them and enjoy them and integrate them with their existing wardrobe for a month. At the end of that month cycle she has a couple of options, she can either, if she's really enjoying the pieces, keep them and rent them for another month. Rent them really until she has decided that she is ready to move on, or she can purchase preloved, or she can pause her subscription if she's sort of had her dose of newness and has decided, actually I'm going to keep things simple for a moment. We never charge damage or loss fees, Tamsin quite rightly recognised that this was a serious barrier to entry when you're trying to convert such a big behaviour pattern. And we didn't want anyone to be fearful of rental. It felt obvious to us to engage in a very trusting relationship with our customers. It's something they really like and pays off for sure. 

 


D: I guess it makes them feel more comfortable about wearing the clothes and enjoying them in the same way they would wear a piece of clothing that that they had bought.

 

N: It really encourages our customers to love and enjoy the pieces. To really feel that they are owning them for that month and technically they are.

 

D: You have some collaborations with the Onloan Lab, how do they work and why is this important to you?

 

N: Onloan Lab is on pause for the moment. Right before the pandemic we met with a High Street manufacturer who had a window into how dire the situation was on the High Street and had decided they wanted to set up their own brand, but wanted to do it very consciously very presently. Not following the usual trend cycles as they would for the High Street, but wanted to develop a product that could stand the test of time. So, they came to us because they thought that we could be a really great way to test their ideas first, before putting anything into production and being wasteful in any way. It's something that we would love to pick up again but it is on pause for now because our other brand partnerships are growing and taking over which is incredibly exciting. I imagine that Onloan Lab at some point will actually extend to our existing brand partners, they are not just people who are looking to start a brand from scratch. We do know from some of our brands that they might test say one piece of knitwear if it's the first foray into that category, and through us they find the confidence that it's a winning product and can go and develop more. So yes, I guess Onloan Lab could be used as a framework for that too, it’s super interesting.

 

D:  As you have said you are a relatively young company, and you touched on the pandemic, how did you cope over the past year and a half?

 

N: It’s weird because occasionally I get a flashback to that period of time, and am like ‘Oh yeah’, Tamsin and I had one yesterday on the bus where we remembered something that we were meant to do during the pandemic that we'd obviously parked, came back in our mindset. I feel that having each other was probably the most instrumental thing to getting through, I cannot imagine what solo founders must have been going through. We had moments where it was dire, but we also had moments where it was absolutely hysterical, because it was just completely insane, you know it was unfathomable. Periods acknowledging how rubbish it was, to also just having a laugh. It was super instrumental in the survival of it.

 

D: And Tamsin what's your perspective on that?

 

T: It was such a crazy period for anyone to live through, but there was certainly an extra layer of craziness because we were trying to run a business which is dramatically affected by the pandemic. We did have people still renting during the whole period and we would always grow quite a bit when everyone was allowed out the house. Our growth spikes directly correlated with when the rules relaxed and then would drop again when rules were tightened. We also had some customers who rented even when they really, really weren’t allowed to leave the house, which is a lovely proof point about how much joy rental can bring just to yourself and not for anyone else. But even despite those sort of moments of levity it was really tough, but we kept each other sane and you know kudos to Jess our colleague who did the same for both of us. We also tried to remember the big picture the whole time, and I also tried to be proud of ourselves for surviving it. Every month felt like an achievement. Admittedly there were a few false dawns, I think for all of us, not just Nat and I running this business, but a lot of times people thought we were near the end and we weren't. I hope we are now, I think we are, we have lived through a couple. So it’s best to be cautious. But feel really proud that we made it, and that we were smart about some of the business decisions we made that allowed us to make it. Proud that we stood by our partners, one of the first things we did when the whole pandemic came was to pay all our designers for the collections that we were due to receive. Which was a big moment in terms of our decisions for our cash. But super proud that we did it, when some of the really big businesses that buy from them didn't. Really tried to keep doing the right thing and keep our head above water, because we knew we were doing the right thing, and that we had a bigger mission that we needed to hold on for. And here we are which is great.

 

D: How do you care for the clothes, cleaning, delivery etc.

 

T: We are the only UK rental company that does it all in house, we operate all end-to-end garment care and logistics ourselves. Clothes come back in from the customer, they are quality checked, there are reviewed, then depending what they need, they might have repair done, a stain removal treatment, they might be gently machine washed, they might be treated with ozone, and then they are quality checked again before going back on the rails. Then steamed, packed and enjoyed by the next customer. And we're really excited to be experts in it. My hunch is, that in this century one of the big strengths that will generate a lot of value for private companies, is being able to keep assets in really great condition. We have to move to a scenario where we all produce and consume less stuff, so the people who become experts in preserving the things we already own will do really well and quite rightly.

 

D: At the end of the life of the clothes that you have, and obviously there are still seasons happening for the designers that you are collaborating with, what do you do with the stock that you already have?

 

T: It's less seasonally driven, we are very particular about buying into styles which are not just one season wonders. We are resolutely not hype driven, and yes of course we buy into trends, it's impossible to avoid them. But we are we are not trying to have that one hit piece that people will be so sick off by the end of the summer they never want to see it again. With that in mind our clothes are bought to be enjoyed for multiple seasons. We do however pass them on in a couple of different ways, so, first of all our customers can buy the garments, at any point in the life cycle, so they could be the first person to rent it, fall in love with it after trying it out for a whole month and realise it really deserves a place in their wardrobe, they can buy it from us. That happens when a piece is one month old, or 28 months old, it could be either end or anywhere in between. Then there are pieces where there is wear and tear on them, which is far fewer than people think, as most things are lasting really, really well and for those pieces, again they sometimes are sold if they are in a condition where a customer might want to own them. We are also looking at other ways to complete the circle if you like. The one we are particularly excited about is talking to a fashion college, we are aware that sustainability, could not be more top of mind for most students coming through fashion colleges right now. They are always looking for fabrics. So there could be the potential to repurpose our garments into something which, potentially could even be rented again, that would be the absolute dream. A lovely way of making sure that nothing is going to landfill, that is very much closed loop and you can put back into the circle again.

 

D: Also, students and even big designers learn from unpicking garments don't they to learn how they were made.

How do you both see the future, the next year, five years, 10 years?

 

N: I feel like we were already living in the five year plan. It feels like wanting to shift to access over ownership is a no-brainer. The feeling of, all the joy of fashion without physically owning it is too good. It feels like time is speeding up in a way, Tamsin and I had anticipated the educational piece around rental taking us much longer, but it feels like it's speeding up. With every new brand that we bring on board, with every new partner we work with, with every new piece that convinced a customer that rental is absolutely the smart way to enjoy clothes, it feels like we're getting one step closer to rental being the largest portion of a customer’s fashion budget. The future is rental. It does feel inevitable with every step that we take forwards. Which is a great feeling, it doesn't make it any easier, but it does feel like the inevitability is just so great.

 

D: When is your Pop-up shop going to pop-up?

 

T: We're just trying to secure dates hopefully 5th of November to the 21st so just over two weeks. Super excited about it, for so many reasons. It's going to be a chance for us to meet all our community, it's going to be a chance to involve our designers who we have become really good partners with. It's gonna be a chance to talk to customers, which we do online the whole time but it's just not the same. Also, to allow people to see and feel the clothes, we have lots of lovely pieces that don't always sing on a website, because its website. It's going to be so nice, to have a physical space for that. But also it's been a long time coming you know, we thought we would be here such a long time ago and the pandemic really meant we had to tread water for 15 months or so, so to be at this point, where we can physically have a store in super cool location and invite down everybody who's helped us t get to this point and thank them just feels so nice.

 

The Onloan Pop Up Shop - Loanerville is now open at 9 Club Row, E1 6JX, go visit and check their insta for upcoming events over the fortnight.

 

 


 



 


 

 

 

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